Well the first thing I noticed when I pulled this pattern out of the envelope was the quality of the pattern. This is a multi-size pattern which covers 10 sizes. This is supposedly a beginner pattern and trying to find the marks for your size was very difficult at times – especially with the darts. I wondered if it would have been better if Colette had offered 2 multi size patterns. The other thing is that there are no seam allowances.
As I am a typical pear shape having very narrow back and shoulders and hips that are 6” bigger than my bust I cut out a size 10 top and a size 12 bottom and then adjusted the pattern to make sure the two would match up at the waist. I also lengthened the skirt by 2.5cm. I usually have to adjust the shoulder seams as I have very narrow shoulders but was not sure where to make the change on this pattern. In retrospect I should have measured from shoulder to shoulder and compared to the pattern.
I then cut out my muslin with extra allowances for adjustments and then used my waxed paper for marking out the seam allowances, darts and notches. I came across this waxed paper when doing the Susan Khalje Couture Dress course with Craftsy – which is an excellent course and well worth the money. I could not find a source in the UK so purchased from Richard III in the States. The trouble was that the minimum order value meant I had to buy quite a lot as there was nothing else on their site I wanted and then I got stung by Customs so this must be the most expensive waxed paper in the world. On the plus side I now have a lifetime supply of waxed paper. It is excellent for muslins but I don’t think I would use it on fashion fabric.
I then thread traced round the parts and then put the muslin together. My intention is to use the muslin as my pattern when I get to the fabric itself.
This is my first fit of my muslin – ignore the hemline I think Steve took the photo from a peculiar angle because it is quite straight.
The first thing I noticed was the waist darts were not in the right place.
The marks on the muslin are my bust points – I think my bra must be a bit lopsided! The waist darts need to point towards the bust point which they certainly do not here! Plus it felt a bit tight across the bust – I think just adding to the side seam a bit will help here.
The neckline is hopeless as it is falling off my shoulders and my bra straps are showing – do you know that looking at these photos I think I have a lopsided stance – my left shoulder is definitely higher than my right.
I need to take the shoulder up and in and to lengthen the shoulder seam a bit. Measuring from my shoulder knob to the end of my bra strap is 6cms while the shoulder seam on the pattern is 3 cms. I think I might lose some of the design element of the bateau neck but I can live with that.
The back is terrible!
I am definitely lop sided!!!!
I think on this I will try pulling in from the centre back seam to start with.
As you can see there are some major issues with fitting this pattern for me. It goes to prove that a muslin is certainly worth doing. Oh well back to the drawing board.
One of the other things I decided after doing this muslin is that my fabric is wrong for this design. The skirt is quite full and I think my fabric choice would suit a straighter skirt than this design. I have picked out a black floral for this instead and if I am happy with the finished product then I will do another one with a straight skirt in my original fabric. After all this trouble I am definitely going to get at least 2 dresses out of this pattern. I did think about abandoning it all together but I like a challenge!
By the way does anyone know how to do a muslin without having to put a zip in? I wondered in retrospect if it was better to sew up the back and leave the side open?
Hey Gill! Sorry to hear you’re having all sorts of difficulties with the muslin. I think we all can empathize with you on that one. I find that some pattern companies require insane alterations for my figure, whereas some others require few (I find BurdaStyle to be the best for me personally). Good thing is, once you find out the formula for Colettte, other patterns you order from them should be easier. I too am lopsided! And I only noticed this in photos and when I made my duct tape dress form – which was also lopsided! HA! Oh well, we’re not all perfect specimens of humanity, are we
There are some fitting issues here, but they don’t look insurmountable. I would (as you say) take out the side seams and move the bust darts. The bust actually doesn’t look too bad, IMO – nice that Colette drafts for a C cup. You’ll also have to finesse the darts in the back (fitting the back yourself sucks…lots of guessing and testing. I hate when my bra straps show, but that should be an easy fix. I never put zips in my muslins. I always cut the back pieces on the fold and the front pieces with a front seam. I then pin the centre fronts together to try on the muslin – much easier that way and makes adjustments to the back easier too (learned this from my Perfect Fitting book http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Photo-Guide-Perfect-Fitting/dp/1589236084; which is really worth it). Best of luck! Looking forward to seeing the result(s). This is a nice simple dress, which means once you get the fit right you can play alot with the details/design elements.
Hi Kat
Thanks for taking so much trouble to reply. I thought it would be an easy fix – I had less trouble re-grading my Vogue pattern which was a bust size too small for me! I have never thought about whether or not one pattern company suits me better than others but will definitely start taking notes. I have made 3 bodice muslins now and everytime I fix one thing another issue seems to pop up. I have the book you mentioned although shamefaced to admit that like a lot of my sewing books it only got a quick glance through. There are certainly some good tips there. I was interested to read that you can choose a pattern where the bust size is your chest size and then do a full bust adjustment which may be easier than having to change the shoulders and I always get a bunch of fabric across my chest which has to be ‘wedged’ out. On the other hand I may just go back to what I was loath to do in the first place which is to draft myself a block and start from there. To be honest this project has got to the point where I never want to sew anything again – a bit like the alcholic swearing off drink when they have just been on a bender!! I am going to walk away for a couple of days and then come back to it. My pattern is absolutely butchered to death now with all the changes I have made and my sewing room aka the spare bedroom looks like a bomb has exploded. I think I just got bogged down with it. Thanks for the tip about keeping the front open in the muslin – that seemed to be a lot better than having to put that zip in again.
If it’s any consolation, you’re not alone. This was exactly the same place I was at with my Vogue Jacket. I made 4 muslins and it NEVER fit well. I was so pissed off at the end that I threw it in the bin and left it there. What really helped me after this was to take a break, clean my craft room (LOL), make up a nice tried and true pattern in a beautiful fabric to regain my sewing confidence and mojo. If you want to come back to it, do so If you don’t, don’t. Sewing has its frustrations, but still should be fun.
Ah, the trials….and what a great reply from Kat! I have that book too…and (ahem) need to read with a bit more retention. Do try using a size that fits your upper chest and add an FBA.. I recently started doing this and feel like I have found the secret code!! Shoulder and back fit is much improved, as is dart placement ….and no pulling across the chest! As an aside, I took Sarah Veblen’s Pattern Review online course on FBA’s….probably my most referred-to course notes ever!
I am definitely going to give it a try next time. The trouble is that I have completely buggered the pattern now. I have learnt a valuable lesson in that it may be worth tracing a pattern off before using.
ah yes…I always trace mine these days….for exactly that reason
Everyone is lopsided – even the clients I have that are “model perfect”, so don’t feel strange! I think you should go down one size in the bodice and do a small Full Bust Adjustment. This will get the fit you’re looking for through the shoulders, which is a much more difficult adjustment than the FBA. The FBA will eliminate the tightness across the bust while leaving the shoulders intact. If you have the patience for another muslin, I’d try it just for comparison. Just to be sure, measure your chest above your bust (upper chest measurement) and cut a bodice using that measurement as the bust. For example, my upper chest measures 38, so I’d cut that size and then do the FBA.
I have one Colette pattern in my stash that was supposed to be sewn last summer. I’ve not cracked it open yet, so I have no idea how it fits yet! Good luck!
Thanks for your comment. I have learnt a lot about commercial pattern fitting through this post and am definitely going to give it a try. I am going to have another go but am going to draft the bodice from scratch. I did a basic pattern drafting course about 18 months ago and bought the Winifred Aldrich book on metric pattern cutting for women’s wear. The peony dress is actually a very simple pattern. I did have a good set of pattern blocks but then I put on a bit of weight last year which I will stop going on about soon I promise!