One of my objectives this year was to add some TNT patterns to my stash. I picked this pattern up from a local charity shop recently and decided to give it a go.

I had to make quite a few pattern adjustments – I always make a toile for a new pattern as I hate to spend a lot of time making something only to find it doesn’t fit. There are some adjustments I always have to do – I have narrow shoulders so always need to reduce the shoulder seams plus a narrow back as well as being short waisted. The other thing I find with vintage patterns is that the bust point is always too high for me – either women used to have high, pert busts or mine are sagging a bit nowadays.

With the toile I found I had to lower the bust point, narrow the shoulder seams, decrease the width of the waist dart and increase the side seams for my increased girth.

When I make my muslin I use old sheets, duvet covers that I pick up in charity shops – I use a long machine stitch to make it easy to rip apart and don’t bother with details such as collars etc as all I am looking for is a basic fit. For my first go at a pattern I usually select cheap material – this was a nice polyester that I purchased in the John Lewis sale for £5 a metre. It has a very silky feel to it and drapes beautifully.

I decided a few things after making this blouse:

1. Never to use iron on interfacing again – I can never get it to go on without wrinkling the fabric. I ended up tearing it out in the end which is not recommended and 2. Always stabilise buttonholes with extra interfacing as mine are a bit ragged to say the least.

Anyway despite the above I am really pleased with the result and now hoping for some warmer weather to wear this. I don’t really want to hide it under a black cardigan!!